WHAT AM I LEARNING?
Lessons and Topics...
Before You Start...
Before beginning the process of learning to drive you must be prepared for the reality. On average it can take forty to fifty hours of professional tuition with an Approved Driving Instructor having a two hour lesson per week. With approximately twenty hours of private practice with a friend or family member to be test standard.
Everyone is different and can take much longer or even fewer hours than the average. Best practice from the learners perspective is to keep an open mind, discuss and have fun . To cover the topics will take at least ten to fifteen hours and more on top to improve. Even the best drivers who have had no professional tuition will need to do this. I will try and advise and book your test for you when you are almost ready. Booking a driving test before beginning lessons is ill-advised as you will not know how long it is going to take to be prepared.
The driving standard in the UK is one of the highest in the world and it takes time to be prepared for driving alone and blending in safely with the flow of traffic.
It is important to have a positive attitude before beginning, though, and maintain it through-out. Remember your instructor (me) was a learner once, too and so knows what you are going through. Even your examiner on the day of the test has had the same experience.
Believing you will make mistakes is only natural. The real mistake people can make is to not learn from them. Learning to drive is very much a practical skill so if you believe you will make a mistake next time... you probably will. Try to work out what works and what does not. A good instructor will help guide you to the right answer. Some people can do this on their own and others are just looking to be told. But you have to be prepared for the reality that perhaps you do not learn the way you hoped for. There are all sorts of information out there about learning styles and we will try and work together to find out what works for you.
Before beginning, make sure you have a UK Provisional Licence. Bring it with you to all leasons and let the instructor see it on the first one. You will need to be able to read a vehicle registration plate from twenty metres away to prove you can see far enough too.
Below are some of the things we will look in to but is by no means all-inclusive...
First Lesson...
At North-East Driving Academy, terms and conditions explaining cancelation policies and pricings etc. will be read out. Most of the lesson will involve being in a quiet street with little traffic discussing controls, mirrors and setting the car up for yourself, the
Cockpit Drill. Then followed by discussing and then attempting to move the car off,
Prepare - Observe - Move
or
POM, drive in a straight line and then pulling up to park on the kerb-side safely, applying
Mirror - Signal - Manoeuvre
or
MSM. After a few goes of this, the lesson will be up. From there the learning process will be fed in through layers (topics) and recapping till test ready. Every lesson will involve a planning session where the pupil will be involved in establishing their goals. No student will be made to do what they feel they are not ready for.
If the learner has previous experience or quickly proves competent then lesson structure will be tailored to suit.
Steering, Gears, Clutch and Brake Control...
The clutch and the brake can seem alien or daunting at first and no one will take in the volume of information from the first lesson at once. After a break from the first lesson, clutch and brake control should be looked into in more detail. The clutch separates the engine form the wheels in basic terms. You use it to feed the power you muster from the engine through to the wheels to get drive when moving off. The
biting point
is when the power is just starting to drive the wheels. The front of the car will lift up slightly when this happens. Every cars clutch feels different so it's important to understand and feel your own cars clutch as it's best to use a fine clutch control when manoeuvring in tight spaces like reverse parking or crawling up to give way lines. Pushing the clutch in removes power and lifting it feeds the power back in. The clutch is also used to change gear.
Brake control is just as important, as a good mastery of brakes can be the difference between a smooth ride and keeping a safe distance from hazards than having a rough ride for passengers and approaching hazards dangerously fast. The brake pedal should be squeezed, always. Even on an emergency stop it is just squeezed more firmly. The brakes primary function is to slow the car down and stop if necessary.
Steering is probably the most important of all controls. Nobody will be affected much, in a dangerous way if you start to brake slightly earlier then necessary or even very slightly late. Or if you lift the clutch too quickly on a slope to move off and the car stalls as long as it's secured quickly. But if you make a slight mistake with the steering wheel you could hit something like the kerb or an oncoming car. There's not a lot of space on the UK's roads these days so steering should be precise. Lane discipline is choosing the correct lane and positioning is being in the centre of that lane at all times unless moving for a pass or overtake or a right turn up ahead or parking on the left. The
"push/pull"
or
"feed the wheel"
method of steering is the most efficient and safest. It's also unnatural so takes a while to bed in with practice and commitment. Like most things "driving" it has its routes in motor racing.
Gears are for acceleration. They are to go not to go slow. You should
NOT
engine brake by lowering the gear to slow down as it puts more wear and tear on the clutch and gear box. Brakes are cheaper to replace than those. Think of the gears for acceleration and for cruising speeds. When you lower or match the speed to the conditions ahead you should match the gear to help accelerate away after. It is better to do this before the hazard. When the road is clear ahead and safe to build up to a reasonable speed or speed limit, which ever comes first, you should then match the highest gear that can comfortably handle that speed usually third or forth gear for 30MPH speed limits
NOT
top gear. Avoid labouring your engine. To change the gear on the upshift you should press the clutch to the floor and lift the gas pedal till you have moved the gear stick. Then lift the clutch gently while applying the gas again. On the downshift you should try and avoid holding the brake on while depressing the clutch to change gear (brake and clutch overlap). However it is acceptable these days.
Junctions...
When the basics of these controls are understood up to a point, applying them to something practical is the next step. Junctions is that next logical step. There are different sorts of junction: left turns, right turns, T junctions and crossroads. The basic junctions are lefts, rights and Ts. Crossroads can be covered later. Traffic lights add a slightly different dimension onto junctions so again will be one of the next topics.
Mirror - Signal - Position - Speed - Look
or
Information - Position - Speed - Gear - Acceleration
are the two routines that should be used to negotiate hazards safely. Especially junctions and roundabouts. Understanding how to assess the junction on approach is important as things like closed views, hidden hazards or zones, tight turns on the kerb can help you decide who or what to look for, how much to steer and more importantly your approach speed. When you know which way you're turning at the junction you assess it then apply
MSPSL
or
IPSGA.
With right turns, the dangers of crossing the path of oncoming traffic should be considered. The Highway Code talks about who has priority. This is important as it helps to maintain structure and discipline which helps prevent collisions.
The speed you should attempt to turn at a left or right junction is between 10-15MPH, 0-10MPH at a T junction, depending on the view of priority traffic and dangers.
Busier Roads, Traffic Lights and Pedestrian Crossings...
How to deal with busier roads is the same as quite ones. There's just more traffic and hazards. Pedestrian crossings and traffic lights are a common feature on Britain's roads, especially in Aberdeen. The only part of
MSPSL
they effect is the speed. Do you go through them or do you wait. On approach it's worth while assessing if the traffic light in the distance is a traffic light controlled junction or just a pedestrian crossing. As if it's just a crossing then it's unlikely to change form green to red on approach if there are no pedestrians although it might. If it's a junction then there's a strong chance it will change, affecting your speed.
The traffic light controlled crossings are: Pelican, Puffin, Toucan
and
Equestrian.
The non- controlled crossing is the
Zebra.
Regardless of what it is you should look for pedestrians waiting to use it and check your mirrors for what's happening behind and ease of the gas or accelerator on approach. If you have to wait you can keep the car crawling forward gently till the amber comes on or the pedestrian has reached the other side of the road at a zebra. Then look for motor bikes and cyclists who have caught up with you from behind using all three mirrors before setting off.
If it's a T/light controlled junction then assess how long the light has been at that colour since you first saw it as it could change as you approach. That could mean having to wait or stop or moving off again just before you stop. Usually the cycle goes: major road to minor road then pedestrian crossing as they will double up as crossings too. If you are in front of the queue then look at what the other roads' lights are doing. If you are stopping on the minor road and the major road is mid-change to red then you will be next to move off in the cycle so prepare the car and get ready to check those mirrors.
Roundabouts...
Roundabouts are basically complex junctions. But they are there to help more traffic flow through the intersection than a crossroads will. Although it can seem the opposite at times. Approach roundabouts the same way as junctions, applying
MSPSL
or
IPSGA. Except slow down to and match second gear well before as it gives you options. You may be able to pass through it around 15-20MPH or you may have to stop. Always plan to stop but look to go.
It's important to remember which exit you are taking and apply the routines on approach. Looking at the signs and lane markings. Look to the right for the priority traffic but try and look for blockers (vehicles exiting before crossing in front of you) as they are creating a safe gap to enter the roundabout. Maintain lane discipline as you go through it and apply
MSM to exit.
Some hints and tips at roundabouts.
DO NOT signal late for the exit as the people waiting to get on and are looking at you as the priority traffic are waiting for you to signal. Not signalling or signalling late can cause unnecessary congestion. If you are not crossing in front of someone, let them know. Also, on roundabouts on dual-carriageways, try and exit on the left lane if turning right if safe to do so.
DO NOT
exit on the left if you have used the right lane on approach and are going ahead.
Meeting and Anticipating Other Road Users Intentions and Keeping a Safe Distance...
Understanding other road users intentions are the success to driving on the public road. Think of it as like walking into a busy supermarket with trolleys. It can be chaotic with people going in all different directions with no warning. Driving is not as bad, as road users should be using signals and following the roads and pedestrians should be on the footpaths. A vehicles signals is their indicators, so look at a vehicles light clusters to see them quickly, but their speed or lack of can be a signal. So can the choice of road positioning. An oncoming vehicle who is willing to let you come through a narrow section of road first, may let you know this by keeping their distance and letting you get to it first. You SHOULD NOT flash your headlights or wave road users through as they will assume you have assessed the situation for them.
Use road users signal to anticipate their intentions and plan around them.
Meeting other traffic is where you and them come close to eachother such as at a junction or reduced gaps. When there is an oncoming vehicle decide if you are going to meet at the reduced gap. If so, they have priority if you have the obstruction on your side. Then the opposite for the other side. It's best to try and meet before the obstruction so you don't have to slow down to a crawl but it may be unavoidable. Try and make progres but give way when needed. Think of the space you need and the space the other vehicle needs (adequate clearance). Try to leave a door width, minimum, to the obstruction. Don't forget to look in your mirrors to check it's safe from behind to move out for a pass on the obstruction then to move back in to the normal driving position (middle of the left lane).
When following other traffic from behind you should leave at least a two second gap. Count up the seconds when the vehicle in front passes a fixed marker on the road side. Which ever second you get to when you pass the same marker, it should be at least two seconds.
National Speed Limit Roads and Overtaking...
National speed limit roads can be fun but can also be extremely dangerous. Dual-carriageways it's
70MPH
limit and single lane it's
60MPH.
The speed limit is not a target but if it is safe to do it then good progress should be made.
On dual-carriageways look out for any reason to use the right hand lane up ahead and keep up to date with who's in it using the right mirrors. Reasons such as slower moving traffic, slip roads where someone is emerging onto the carriageway or you are turning right up a head.
MSM
in good time and change lanes early. Wait till you see the number plate of the vehicle you have just overtaken in your centre mirror before checking the left mirror and moving back into the left lane. You MUST NOT
sit in the right lane unnecessarily or middle or right lanes if on a motorway. You should always move back into the left as soon as it is safe to do so.
Rural roads are the most dangerous of all. The high speeds coupled with twisty sections, wildlife, slower moving traffic and poorly maintained surfaces are all the hazards to look out for. Look for the signs or warnings - mud on the road (tractor ahead), sharp bends etc. Overtaking on these roads is the most dangerous thing you can do while driving so attempt with good awareness of the risks ahead and from behind, good planning and commitment. When overtaking, take up an overtaking position and proceed when it is safe to do so using lots of mirrors, signalling your intentions and firstly looking ahead for no oncoming traffic, no junctions and a long straight.
Reversing and Manoeuvres...
Reversing your car can be tedious but necessary. It's best to remember you are the one causing the obstruction so try and make sure you do it safely and cautiously. Lots of people think performing the manoeuvre quickly is best to get out of the way. Up to a point they are correct but safety for themselves and others will be sacrificed. Whether it be a Turn in the Road, a Left Reverse, a reverse Bay park, a forward bay park or Parallel Park or even something different such as reversing out of your driveway or reversing in a straight line you should follow these three rules - Control, Observation and Accuracy.
Control your car by not letting it roll backwards or forwards. Use the handbrake if stopped and find the biting point. Keep the speed under control. No bite and brakes if reversing downhill.
Observations include constantly checking your surroundings. Not everyone will be patient with you while reversing. Some may expect you to stop and wait for them to pass without giving you the chance to spot them first. Check your blind spot before swinging your car out in front.
Be Accurate with what you are trying to do. So think it through first. Plan the manoeuvre to do it first attempt with no mistakes.
The key to all these is the speed. Keep it slow till the manoeuvre is finished.
